Cosmetics that contain alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are widely used with the belief that they correct the effects of aging by regenerating the top layer of skin.
A study sponsored by the cosmetics industry indicates that these products may make users more sensitive to sunlight and especially to the ultraviolet (UV) radiation component of sunlight. UV exposure can damage the skin and at high doses, especially over a long period, can cause skin cancer.
It is important to use sun protection, including a sun screen, if you use an AHA product, even if you haven't used the product that day. If the AHA that you're using contains a sunscreen, it is suggested that applying an additional sunscreen (SPF 15) product before going into the sun will be beneficial. Even though your AHA product may contain sunscreen, it is primarily a skin treatment product--not a means of sun protection. If you use the AHA at bedtime, be sure to apply an additional sunscreen product in the morning before going into the sun.
Products with AHAs are marketed for a variety of purposes: to smooth fine lines and surface wrinkles, to improve skin texture and tone, to unblock and cleanse pores, to improve oily skin or acne, and to improve skin condition in general. It is important to follow the use instructions on the label. Do not exceed the recommended applications. It is not recommended that AHA-containing products be used on infants and children.
To find out if a cosmetic contains an AHA, look on the list of ingredients all cosmetics must, by law, have on their outer packaging. AHA ingredients may be listed as:
* glycolic acid
* lactic acid
* malic acid
* citric acid
* glycolic acid + ammonium glycolate
* alpha-hydroxyethanoic acid + ammonium alpha-hydroxyethanoate
* alpha-hydroxyoctanoic acid
* alpha-hydroxycaprylic acid
* hydroxycaprylic acid
* mixed fruit acid
* tri-alpha hydroxy fruit acids
* triple fruit acid
* sugar cane extract
* alpha hydroxy and botanical complex
* L-alpha hydroxy acid
* glycomer in crosslinked fatty acids alpha nutrium (three AHAs).
Of these, the most frequently used in cosmetics are glycolic acid and lactic acid.
AHA products cause exfoliation, or shedding of the surface skin. The extent of exfoliation depends on the type and concentration of the AHA, its pH (acidity), and other ingredients in the product. Most cosmetics sold to consumers contain AHAs at levels up to 10 percent. It is FDA's understanding that products with AHA concentrations of 20 percent or higher are used by trained cosmetologists for salon "mini-peels."
In studies conducted by FDA on the absorption of AHAs through the skin, the AHAs tested were readily absorbed into the skin at varying rates. The most rapid absorption occurred with AHAs having lower pHs (higher acidity).
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